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Sesderma Sesderma Azelac Ru Serum - Product image showing packaging and label for comedogenic ingredient analysis
SesdermaSerum

Sesderma Azelac Ru Serum

Low Risk(2)
34 ingredients1 flagged

Sesderma Azelac Ru Serum is a specialized depigmenting treatment designed to target skin spots and uneven tone at their source. This serum utilizes liposomal technology to deliver active ingredients like azelaic acid and tranexamic acid deeper into the skin, making it a popular choice for those dealing with melasma or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. The texture is notably lightweight and fast-absorbing, thanks to an aqueous base featuring propylene glycol and alcohol, which helps the formula penetrate without leaving a heavy residue. It provides a smooth, refined finish on the skin, aided by polymethyl methacrylate. While the formula is highly effective for brightening, it does contain capric/caprylic triglyceride, an emollient derived from coconut oil. This ingredient helps to maintain the skin barrier while the active acids work on pigmentation, ensuring the serum doesn't leave the skin feeling stripped despite its potent brightening properties. It is an advanced solution for those seeking a more uniform complexion and a reduction in the appearance of dark spots.

Our Analysis

Our analysis of Sesderma Azelac Ru Serum indicates a low overall comedogenic risk level. The formula is primarily water-based and utilizes penetration enhancers like alcohol and propylene glycol. The only flagged ingredient is capric/caprylic triglyceride, which holds a 2/5 comedogenic rating. This is a fractionated form of coconut oil where the most problematic long-chain fatty acids have been removed, making it significantly less likely to clog pores than raw coconut oil. For most users with acne-prone skin, this concentration is unlikely to cause issues, though it remains a minor consideration for those with extremely reactive pores.

Skin Type Recommendations

This serum is ideal for oily, combination, and hyperpigmented skin types due to its lightweight, non-greasy texture. It is particularly effective for those treating dark spots. However, individuals with very dry or hypersensitive skin should be cautious, as the alcohol content may be drying or cause slight irritation.

Flagged Ingredients

2
capric/caprylic triglyceride

Fractionated coconut oil; removed most clogging long-chain acids but can still affect some.

MACR Analysis

5-Axis AI-Powered Risk Assessment

The MACR analysis found moderate concerns not captured by traditional comedogenic ratings, such as barrier disruption or irritation potential.

Overall Risk Score

Lower is better

55/100
Moderate Risk

Score by Skin Type

Lower is better

Dry49Consider Alt.
Oily55Consider Alt.
Sensitive49Consider Alt.
Acne-Prone58Consider Alt.

Same product, different risks based on your skin type

Detected: unknown

Fallback analysis found 1 potentially comedogenic ingredients with an overall risk score of 55/100.

Risk Breakdown

(PR) Plugging Risk3.0/5
(BR) Barrier Risk2.0/5
(FR) Fungal RiskPRIMARY4.0/5
(OR) Oxidation Risk3.0/5
(UR) User-Reported2.0/5

Skin Type Considerations

Oily/Acne-Prone:May cause breakouts for acne-prone skin
Fungal Acne-Prone:Contains ingredients that may feed Malassezia
Dry/Sensitive:See full analysis for details
AI Confidence: 50%Used fallback analysis

This analysis uses the Multi-Axis Comedogenic Risk (MACR) system. Results are AI-estimated and cannot account for actual ingredient concentrations. Individual reactions may vary. Consult a dermatologist for personalized advice.

Full Ingredient List(34 ingredients)

AquaPropylene GlycolAlcoholPeg/​Ppg-20/​6 DimethiconePolymethyl MethacrylatePeg-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil4-ButylresorcinolAzelaic AcidRetinolAscorbyl GlucosideNiacinUndecylenoyl PhenylalanineGlycyrrhetinic AcidDiacetyl BoldineCitronellyl MethylcrotonateSodium OxalateParfumCarbomerXanthan GumTocopheryl AcetatePolysorbate 20BhtEthylhexylglycerinSodium HydroxideCaprylic/​Capric TriglycerideSodium ChlorideBhaHydrochloric AcidPeg/Ppg-20/6 DimethiconeCaprylic/Capric TriglycerideRead all the geeky details about Propylene Glycol here >>Read all the geeky details about Azelaic Acid here >>Read all the geeky details about Retinol here >>[more]

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Our analysis is powered by AI and backed by extensive research on comedogenic ingredients — but it's not medical advice. For skin concerns, please consult a dermatologist.